I was paging through my newest Penzey’s catalog and saw this note on the salt page and was kind of shocked to read this little message from Bill Penzey.

We’re cutting back on salt.

A really good and healthy thing going on with food right now is that people are using less salt. We want to be a part of this. Going forward we will continue to sell reasonably priced generic salts of the earth and sea, but we will no longer be selling the higher priced specialty salts. I feel things have gotten to a point where the specialty salts are glamorizing the use of salt and, with that, encouraging people to use more of it. I have also found that along with the marketing of specialty salt has come a great deal of misinformation, including claims that some salts don’t affect your health like others do. This is just not true and not something we want to be a part of. Salt is salt, it really is, and it tastes no different no matter where it comes from.

With our belief that cooking comes from caring for those around you we feel part of that is caring for the well-being of the people we cook for. We all have our own relationship with salt and I respect that, but as a cook and as a business I feel so much better about working to cut back on the use of salt rather than encouraging the use of more. I hope this makes sense to you,

Bill

I have several issues with this decision.  First, I am disappointed that instead of letting customers decide what kind and how much salt to use that Bill Penzey is making the decision for you.  Yes you the loyal customer who have fueled the almost unbelievable expansion of Penzey’s across the country are too dumb to realize that salt is salt. From now on if you are buying salt from Penzey’s all you can get is Kosher Flake Salt and Pacific Sea Salt.  However that is not really my issue because it’s not like Penzey’s was carrying exotic salts like Pink Salt, Indian Black Salt, or even Smoked salt, my issue is how he is going about this. 

The problem is that while salt is salt, there are differences in styles of salt that people use.  While there really isn’t much difference in taste there is a difference in texture and how they dissolve.   A nice  sprinkle of Penzey’s Sel Gris on some grilled Brussels Sprouts has a different effect than if you were to use kosher salt or  table salt.  Most baking is done with table salt and if you used kosher salt chances are your recipe wouldn’t turn out as well.  As a magazine devoted to providing the home chef with great herbs, spices, and blends, I am disappointed they are so dismissive of salt.  Without salt you cannot cook great food.  Things taste flat, bland, and uninteresting.  Ask any chef what is the most important seasoning in the kitchen and they’ll all say salt. 

The problem with salt and sodium in our diets is not because of the home cook using a pinch of fleur de sel to season their green beans, it’s the use of salt as a food preservative in processed foods.  Look at a can of soup and your blood pressure will skyrocket just by reading the sodium content.  Look closer and you’ll likely find that the sodium listed is for one serving and not the entire can (usually 2 servings).  Look at any TV dinner, even those horrible Lean Cusines that everyone has been duped into thinking are actually good for you.  Look at the boxed chicken broth and stock that everyone uses and see how much salt is in there.  So yes I agree there is a sodium problem in our diets but to think that by eliminating the “fancy” salts from the Penzey’s catalog you are helping the cause is just moronic and a little bit narcissistic.  Reduce the amount of processed foods you buy and you’ll probably cut your salt intake by more than 50 percent.

Penzey’s is one of my favorite food businesses and I am proud that they are based here in Wisconsin.  They have some of the freshest and most reasonably priced herbs and spices around and I’ll continue to support them even though they think I am too dumb to know how to buy and use salt.

I saw an ad for Metro Market bragging about how their beer selection cannot be beat and I just had to comment at just how ridiculous that claim is.  Pick N’ Save has one of the blandest beer selections around, even at the Metro Market.  Sure you’ll find some local microbrews like Sprecher, Lakefront and New Glarus, but nowhere near the selection found at Brennan’s, Woodman’s, Blatz Liquor, Discount, Three Cellars, and Breeze-Thru. Also most of these other places, with the exception of Woodman’s  has employes or owners who know what they are talking about. 

I first heard of Chicago chef Graham Elliott Bowles a few years back when Michael Nagrant (HungryMag.com and Chicagomag.com) interviewed him for a podcast while he was piling up accolades at Avenues at the Peninsula Hotel.  I also followed along as sites like eGullet and the LTHForum (a Chicago food messageboard) tracked the opening of his own restaurant, Graham Elliot, located at 217 W. Huron Street in Chicago’s River North neighborhood.  As such Graham Elliot has always been on the list of “places to try” when I visit Chicago.  On a recent visit I finally was able to check the restaurant out with a couple of friends.

I arrived and they were already at the bar where the bartender had filled them in on the new fall cocktail menu just released that day. I had something called the Surrender Dorothy which featured basil infused gin, green chartreuse, fresh lime and  prosecco.  It was delicious and had a very herbal taste that was nicely tempered by the bubbly prosecco.  One of my friends had the Blueberry Hill, a mixture of Hendrick’s Gin, Crème de Violette, Blueberry Compote and Blackberry Shrub that was so tasty that he ordered a second one when we were seated.

There are several signature touches that make Graham Elliot stand out.  From the super casual atmosphere with no tablecloths or stuffy dress code to the use of Ikea plates and bowls to the killer music selection which on our night heavily featured Jawbreaker, The Pixies, and the Cure (three of my favorite bands).  The  decision not to serve the obligatory and often times boring bread basket but instead serve up a basket of truffle popcorn is another Graham Elliot touch.  Ahh the white truffle popcorn, what a great way to start out a meal.  Its light and doesn’t fill you up like bread can and tastes 100 times better too.  You can smell the aroma of the white truffle oil every time a server walks by your table with a new basket of this glorious snack food.  Even as we were finishing our final courses I still wanted some truffle popcorn every time that unmistakable truffle smell wafted by.

After looking over the menu and flip-flopping over what items to order the server suggested one of their tasting menus (5 or 10 course).  We asked her what menu items are on each of the menus and the 10 course ($125) pretty much covered every item the three of us were looking at so we decided to try it and I am glad we did because Graham Elliot serves up some exciting, unique, and most importantly, tasty food. Here is a brief recap of each course:

Course 1: White Tuna Sashimi with Plantain Chips, Whipped Avocado, Cilantro Sprouts, Passion Fruit. The waitress informed us this was an Escolar sashimi as she brought out the beautifully plated first course.  A nice piece of fish sat atop the avocado and passionfruit.  A paper thin segment of plantain stuck out from the bottom of that.  As striking as the presentation was we were all underwhelmed by this dish. It lacked the pop that I expected. The ingredients made it seem like it would be a flavor explosion but everything seemed kind of muted.  It wasn’t bad by any stretch of the imagination, it just wasn’t great.

Course 2:  Hand Pulled Mozzarella  This was the chef’s take on a Caprese salad and I am not sure I can go back to the real thing again.  A perfectly ripe yellow tomato sat atop a round of their house made mozzarella cheese.  On top of that sat a small quenelle of balsamic vinegar  pre=”vinegar “>sorbet and some micro basil.  The waitress then drizzled the small salad with some excellent olive oil.  The contrasting flavors of warm fresh mozzarella, room temperature tomato, and ice cold sorbet worked perfectly.  The taste was pure caprese but the sensation of that icy balsamic melting just awoke the palate in a manner the traditional salad could never accomplish.

Course 3: Sweet Corn Bisque  This just might have been the dish of the evening.  The bowl is presented with a small pool of lime crema topped with chipotle jam and crushed up corn nuts and a garlic marshmallow. The server pours the corn bisque into the bowl at the table and instructs you to swirl the marshmallow and other accompaniments into the soup.  You got the pure taste of creamy corn with a little heat from the chipotles, a little acidity from the lime crema, texture from the corn nuts, and creaminess, enhanced with the garlic marshmallow.  If Graham Elliot Bowles ever writes a cookbook I’d buy it for this recipe alone.

Course 4: Kung Pao Sweetbreads  Pretty much what it sounds like.  Sweetbreads served like kung pao chicken.   I love sweetbreads and I love kung pau chicken so I knew I was going to order this as an appetizer before I stepped foot in the restaurant.  A nice sized portion of sweetbreads was perfectly cooked and served with black sesame seeds, scallion puree, and chili oil.  The exterior of the sweetbreads was slightly crispy giving way to a creamy interior with just a touch of pinkness, in other words perfectly cooked.  What really tied this together and took it over the top was the addition of peanut brittle to mimic the peanuts found in kung pao.   My dining companions, not fans of offal, asked the server if they could substitute the lobster corn dog.  The kitchen said sure and they loved every bite of it.    

Course 5: Seared Alaskan Halibut Halibut, I must admit, is one of my favorite fish to eat.  This dish just might be my favorite halibut dish ever. It was up there with the corn bisque as one of the  best dishes of the evening.  Perfectly cooked, melt-in-your-mouth halibut sat atop some Israeli Couscous mixed with smoked eggplant, caramelized pieces of fennel and some tomato marmalade.  Every aspect of  this dish was superb and worked in perfect harmony together. 

Course 6: Scallop    A perfectly seared scallop sat atop some fairly decent potato salad and is drizzled with what I think was a bacon dressing.  A fried pickle rested on the scallop.  All of the elements were good by themselves but together it just sort of became a muddle of flavors.  This was probably my 2^nd least favorite course of the evening.  I loved the fried pickle on its own and the scallop was absolutely perfectly cooked, creamy on the inside, a golden sear on the outside.  For some reason all of these tastes just didn’t work together for me. 

Course 7: Tamarind Lacquered Duck  I love duck and I loved the way the kitchen used duck in this dish.  This was so stunning that  I wanted to return the next night and order it again.  The course featured medium rare duck breast with a crispy outer skin atop some forbidden rice, banana blossoms, thai basil, and curried coconut.  Thai basil, curry and coconut is one of my favorite flavor combinations so I was certain I would enjoy this, and I did immensely.

Course 8 Bison Skirt Steak Thin slices of perfectly medium rare bison skirt steak  on top of some addictive Sprecher root beer sauce, killer cole slaw, a nice onion ring and house made baked beans.  Sometimes skirt steak, of the most flavorful cuts of meat, can be a little tough and chewy.  That is not the case here as it was nice, lean and tender.  On this blog I have made reference to my dislike of baked beans but these are so outstanding that I may become a convert. My overall read of this dish is that it was like a steakhouse meal (steak and onion rings) and  summer bbq  (bbq sauce, baked beans, and cole slaw) all wrapped into one killer dish.

(Note: I am not 100 percent sure these are the correct names for the desserts we had, I couldn’t find the exact menu from when we dined there so I am going from memory.  Also by the time these fabulous desserts arrived I had a healthy buzz going).  

Course 9: Deconstructed Strawberry Shortcake All of the elements of strawberry shortcake, but deconstructed.  It worked well and kind of served as a nice palate cleanser from  the heavier protiens served just before it.  It was a nice transition between them, and the rich and decadent course that followed.

Course 10: FlourlessChocolate Cake A nice streak of chocolate cocoa syrup across the plate was the foundation for this killer dessert.   There were two types of chocolate cake at each end.  My favorite part was the crunchy meringue. The ice milk provided a nice cool contrast to the rich chocolate.

Overall I think the meal was a great success, one of the best meals I have had in recent memory.  The three of us all agreed on the two weakest dishes; the first course escolar sashimi and the scallop course.  However when I say miss the mark, it needs to be taken in context of the whole meal.  The escolar was very fresh and tasted good, the combination of flavors just didn’t wow me or my friends.  Eaten separately the components of the scallop course were also very good.While at first blush the portions seem small I left Graham Elliot’s I realized I was at the perfect level of fullness.  I didn’t feel like I needed to eat any more and I didn’t feel stuffed.

The pacing of the meal was perfect as courses came out shortly after plates were cleared from the previous course, but not too fast.  Our server was simply outstanding.  She explained the dishes very well, made suggestions, and answered our numerous questions.  She was very knowledgable about beer and wine too. One of my friends raved about the balsamic sorbet served with the second course and the waitress took notice.  Just before our first dessert course arrived she brought out a small plate with another quenelle of the tasty sorbet for her; a nice thoughtful touch.

As much as I enjoy wine I have always been more of a craft beer guy.  I was really in a mood for beer and unlike so many upscale restaurants, Graham Elliot really has an impressive beer list (they also have all of Sprecher’s sodas too).    The waitress provided some guidance on the upcoming courses and recommended beers to try as we went along.  An Allagash White Ale (Portland, Maine) was a refreshing drink that paired nicely with the lighter first course dishes.  As the menu progressed I had a slightly hoppy Mendocino Red Tail Ale which was great with dishes like the Halibut and Sweetbreads.  Moving on to the richer dishes like the Bison Skirt Steak and Tamarind Lacquered Duck, I took my server’s advice and had a black ale (I cannot recall what kind it was though). Along with dessert I switched gears and had nice glass of Madeira wine. The list of dessert wines is not online either so I don’t know what kind it was but it was great.  Not too sweet and sort of nutty in taste, it was great with the chocolate dessert.

My only regret about this meal was that I didn’t try the ”foilipops,” Bowles’ signature appetizer of foie gras lolipops coated with pop rocks. I am not sure why I didn’t order them but I am certain I will return to Graham Elliot and I’ll definitely try them then.

Graham Elliott is located at located at 217 W. Huron Street in Chicago’s River North neighborhood. Phone: 312-624-9975 Web: http://www.grahamelliot.com/

The Kohler Food & Wine Experience truly offers something for every taste and every budget. The wide range of events – with dozens of complimentary offerings and some ticketed events starting at just $15 – offer endless options as people look for more value out of their entertainment dollars.

We’re only a few days away from kicking off of the Food & Wine Experience, which runs October 22-25, and wanted to share a final update with you about the sumptuous samples and tantalizing tastings available at dozens of complimentary events throughout the weekend. A few examples include:

• Grocer Vendor Fair at Woodlake Market
• Tastings, specials, trunk shows, drawings and events at The Shops at Woodlake
• Chef demonstrations and samplings at the Kohler Design Center (guests can enter to win The Kitchens of Kohler chef-inspired Kohler STAGES Sink and two Karbon faucets prize package)
• Gourmet Marketplace at The American Club

 For a full list of complimentary events by date, please visit http://www.destinationkohler.com/village/shops_woodlake/food_wine_comp_events.html. For the full schedule of events and ticket availability, please visit www.kohlerfoodandwine.net or call 800-344-2838.

Oilerie

As usual, one of my favorite stops in Door County even though they opened one in Brookfield.  I picked up some Spicy Italian Extra Virgin Olive Oil and some Fig Balsamic.  I also grabbed some of that excellent Curt’s queso dip and chips and a pack of mixed lentils.   I’ll still lodge my only complaint about the place; why don’t you offer half bottles?  You’d probably increase your overall sales by 25 percent.   I’ll always buy regular olive oil and 25 year old balsamic in the large bottles but I’ll likely never buy an entire large bottle of something like truffle olive oil or blood orange olive oil because I know I’ll never use that much before it goes bad.  I probably would have bought at least two ½ bottles, probably more, in addition to the two large bottles.  

VonStiehl Winery

After last year’s disappointing visit to Stone’s Throw Winery I was assured by the owner that they were going to change how they did their tastings.  I really wanted to go back and give them another chance because of the great time we had on our initial visit.  Unfortunately it wasn’t in the cards on this trip.  Instead we ended up stopping at Von Stiehl winery in Algoma on the way up to Door County, and I am glad we did.  They offered a tour/tasting for $3.75 which included tastings of several of their wines (I think I tried 6 of them, maybe more). 

The tour guide was very enthusiastic even though we were the only people on the tour.  It was very in-depth and they’ll tell you just about anything you want to know about Von Stiehl or winemaking in general.  She even told us a great deal about the City of Algoma, which made us want to come up and spend more time in this small town on the shores of Lake Michigan.

After the tour it was on to the tasting room.  I honestly liked almost every wine I tried.  Some of the real highlights were the Cabernet Sauvignon, The Naughty Girl (a nice, well balanced red), an excellent sparkling Muscat, and a delicious and addictive Raspberry Framboise.  We bought one bottle of each of these. 

Von Stiehl Winery is located at 115 Navarino Street Algoma, WI 54201 (920) 487-5208 or 1-800-955-5208 e-mail at: vonstiehl@vonstiehl.com and on the web at http://www.vonstiehl.com/ . Tours are offered May through October.

Farm Stand in Carlsville

Across the street from Bistro 42 (review here) and the Door Peninsula Winery is a small farmstand that I wished I had gotten the name of.  We picked up some Door County Cherries and Blueberries, some of which went into making this easy and delicious grilled dessert. However the highlight were fresh Door County peaches. Hands down the best peach I have ever eaten.  Perfectly ripe and dripping with juice, and bursting with pure peach flavor.

I was kind of nervous when we walked into Bistro 42, a restaurant attached to the Door Peninsula Winery in Carlsville, WI because there was nobody at the bar and the dining room was virtually empty.  I think there were two other tables occupied in the large, impressively decorated dining room.  Then again it was a Thursday night and it was getting late so we decided to try it and boy am I glad we did. 

 I can rarely resist baked French Onion Soup when I see it on the menu and Bistro 42 was no exception.  The soup was very good but noting set it apart from other good French Onion soups.  If you are a fan, you’ll enjoy it as much as I did.  Moving on to entrees, I had the Pecan Encrusted Walleye with local sweet corn cakes and cherry tomatoes.  The Walleye, one of my favorite fish for as long as I can remember, was perfectly cooked with a killer crust of pecans, adding a nice nutty taste and some crunchy texture to the flaky fish. Two corn cakes (think pancakes but made with corn) sat underneath.  The cakes were nice and moist and the inclusion of kernels of corn ensured that each bite was bursting with corn flavor.  They provided a nice soft texture in contrast to the crunchy pecan breading.  The tomatoes were tasty but really didn’t tie into the dish at all, they were just kind of there. A sauce of honey and creme fraiche tied the dish together. My wife had the Mushroom & Cheese Stuffed Ravioli.  The menu said they were made from scratch and there was little doubt once the pile of irregular shaped ravioli arrived at our table.  They had a great earthy mushroom taste and I liked that the mushrooms were left in small chunks, adding a nice texture to the creamy cheese inside.

The wine pours were among the most generous I have seen anywhere.  What you get in one glass here is about double the standard pour at most restaurants. I had a glass of Door Peninsula Select Series Pinot Noir.  While it wasn’t the best Pinot I have tried (it was a little acidic for my liking) it paired well with my French Onion Soup and didn’t overpower my Walleye dish.  

Service was attentive and fast (though it was dead in there so I don’t know how they are during busier times). At first the waitress seemed to be going through the motions with no enthusiasm but she  kind of warmed up and became talkative as our dinner went on, which had me relieved.  Bistro 42 is a nice restaurant serving some great food in a warm and inviting atmosphere and I’d recommend it to anyone looking for something different while visiting Door County.

Bistro 42 is located at 5806 Hwy 42 (intersection of Hwy 42 & I) in Carlsville, WI 54235. Phone: (920) 743-wine (9463), web: http://www.bistrofortytwo.com/

A couple of weeks ago I was sent a press release announcing the opening of Milwaukee company that plans on doing artisanal charcuterie such as dry-cured meats like prosciutto, pancetta, and guanciale. Immediately I was intrigued so I contacted Scott Buer, the owner of Bolzano Artisan Meats and asked if if he would do an interview. I figured the readers of EatWisconsin, as well as authors of other great Wisconsin food blogs would be very interested to hear about Buer’s company, which is the first in Wisconsin to be doing these types of products. 

Bolzano Artisan Meats started in April 2009 when they began remodeling the space recently occupied by Great Lakes Distillery, makers of Rehorst Gin & Vodka, Pumpkin Seasonal (made with Lakefront Pumpkin Lager), Artisan Series Brandies, and Absinthe. They began their first batch of cured meats in September of 2009.  Since dry curing and aging takes a while, it won’t be until next month when consumers can start to purchase their meats.  The first products, Berkshire Pancetta and Berkshire Guanciale, will be available October 19, 2009 and the Speck Prosciutto will be available in the spring of 2010.  According to their website you will be able to find their products at Glorioso Brothers on Brady Street (which is moving to a new, larger location on  Brady Street in 2010), The Wisconsin Cheese Mart on Old World 3rd Street, Fromagination & Steve’s Wine Market in Madison, and Nala’s Fromagerie in Green Bay.

EatWisconsin: First could you tell us a little about your company and what you are doing?

Photo  by Michael Prokop

Scott Buer: Bolzano Artisan Meats is Wisconsin’s first and only company to make dry cured meats, items like prosciutto, pancetta and guanciale. It’s a very old European process that takes about 2 months for the smaller items and 9 months for the prosciutto, as compared to days for bacon or ham.

Doing a food like this – new to most of us, but old to Europe, makes us more like a microbrewery than a meat company. (And our tiny size and output too.)

We strongly feel that dry curing is the best way to showcase what is great about small farms with heritage breeds of hog that live great, healthy lives. Dry curing means never heating the meat, and every nuance the way an animal is raised becomes part of the meat. It says as much about the land as wine does about the grape, vineyard, and vintage.

EW: How did you get started with charcuterie and what inspired you to start this business?

SB: I grew up with foodie parents and grandparents way before that has cool again, watching sauerkraut being made, stuff like that. I got into home brewing in my twenties, and then into charcuterie in early 30’s. To me they are very similar, both preserving foods in mysterious ways. Both pull together food, science, and history.

EW: How long have you been in business?

SB: We started building our facility in April 2009, and first batch of food started this September. Our space was the previous home of Great Lakes Distillery, Wisconsin’s first craft distillery, they outgrew the space, so it seems like a place with good mojo.

The summer was a brutal workathon of getting equipment imported from Italy for the first time, getting equipment custom made, and making things ourselves. No real road map for this, since we’re the first. But it’s been really fun too.

EW: What kind of products are you offering now and what can customers look for in the future?

SB: Our first batch is pancetta, guanciale (pork cheek) and speck prosciutto. Pancetta is a pork belly, which is also where bacon comes from. Guanciale is a pork cheek with interesting marbling and buttery fat, more highly seasoned. Our prosciutto is from way northern Italy, where it is lightly smoked and seasoned, and it’s called Speck.

Our pancetta and guanciale is for sale now, but first batch will be ready to go out about Oct. 17.

Our speck prosciutto is not for sale yet, because it won’t be ready until April 2010. But we will be starting a program where big foodies can reserve a whole prosciutto early, get a personal tour, and some other nice extras we are working on.

We are working on bringing a few more products, like a loin and a pork shoulder, as well as making more than one kind of our present products, making something really suited to Wisconsin history, agriculture, etc. Bringing more heirloom breeds to market will be exciting too.

EW:  How has the reception been to your products?

It’s been very encouraging and rewarding to tell people we are making prosciutto right here in Milwaukee and watch their faces light up. People who get microbreweries and the craft cheese movement really get what we’re about, even if they don’t buy a lot of these types of products now.

EW: I saw on your website that you will be at some farmers’ markets.  Which ones can people find you at?  Are there plans to expand the availability of your products either in more stores, farmers’ markets or possibly in local restaurants?

SB: We are still finalizing dates for the farmers markets, but were 99% sure we will be at:

Sat. Oct 24, 8am-12pm East Town farmers market, Milwaukee

Sun. Oct 25, 11am-4pm Riverwest farmers market, Milwaukee

Sat. Oct 31, 8am-12pm East Town farmer market, Milwaukee

Sat. Nov. 7 thru April 24 8am-12pm Milwaukee County Winter Farmers Market as State Fair Park (a new event!)

EW: I know that meat quality is extremely important for good quality charcuterie, where do you source your meat from?  Do you use local farmers?

SB: We use local and regional farmers. Our first batch for sale is all Berkshire hogs from Iowa, but Mulefoot and Hereford hogs from WI are on the way. I wanted to kick of with WI hogs right away but that would have meant our partner farms growing a heard for us, not knowing when or even if we were ever going to open.

What’s neat is that like good coffee tells if it’s Indonesian, or Kenyan, etc, each of our products will we saying what breed of hog they are from, and then the website will give more info on what farm those hogs came from. It’s important to us to get people to understand food does not come from a grocery store, and it does not even come from us … it comes from farms!

EW: Do you offer any tours?

SB: We can’t have standing tour dates and times like a brewery, because of regulations, but we will be having tours and tastings for sure for small groups. We are very interested in opening up to and telling about what we do. Most companies are afraid to have the public see their meats being made or where the animals come from, we’re trying to change that.

EW: Anything else you’d like to let people know or add?

SB: Be sure to check out our website and email me at info(at)bolzanomeats.com to sign up for our email newsletter. We’ll keep you updated on where to find us and our products, tours and more. Not to mention when the Speck Prosciutto is ready, everyone is eager for that. We’re looking for recipes and feedback from everyone out there who loves great food, too.

I’d like to thank Scott for taking the time to respond to my questions via e-mai. 

Kohler Food & Wine Experience tickets are now on sale for a weekend full of flavor with celebrity chef presenters Jacques Pépin, Andrew Zimmern, Marcus Sammuelsson and Lidia Bastianich among others on October 22-25, 2009. Interested food and wine connoisseurs are urged to purchase tickets now as this year’s event features one of the “Just like a fine wine the Kohler Food & Wine Experience gets better with age,” said Chef Ulrich Koberstein, Group Director of Culinary Arts – Kohler Co.

The complete schedule of events, tickets and hotel packages are now available for event goers to learn from wine experts, regional restaurateurs and nationally renowned chefs. Details are available at www.KohlerFoodandWine.net or 1-800-344-2838.

CELEBRITY PRESENTERS & CHEFS

This year the strong line-up of celebrities includes some returning favorites and new presenters and chefs to the Village of Kohler:

• Jacques Pépin – Host of Jacques Pépin: More Fast Food My Way & cohost of PBS’s The Zen of Taste

• Claudine Pépin – Cohost of PBS’s The Zen of Taste

• Lidia Bastianich – Author and hostess of PBS’s Lidia’s Italy

• Marcus Samuelsson – Chef – Aquavit, Cookbook Author, Cofounder & Chief Creative Director – Townhouse Restaurant Group

• Andrew Zimmern – Host of Travel Channel’s Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern

• Hosea Rosenberg – Bravo TV Top Chef New York Season 5 Winner

• Jon Ashton – CW’s The Daily Buzz Chef

• Marc Stroobandt – Belgian Master Beer Sommelier and Belgian BEER Ambassador

2009 SPECIAL EVENTS

Co-sponsored by Food & Wine magazine, this event offers a weekend of gala wine tasting events, wine & spirits seminars, culinary demonstrations, artisan cheeses and gourmet food makers, and specialty shopping. This year features new and time-honored events. New for the 2009 event are the Intimate Chef Luncheons ($85) at The Wisconsin Room on Friday and Saturday and the Ultimate Tailgate Party at the Stella Artois Main Stage on Sunday. The luncheons are hosted by a celebrity chef that dines with the guests and discusses inspiration for the chef selected menu and beverage pairings. Friday’s luncheon features Lidia Bastianich and a chef selected menu paired with Italian wines. Hosea Rosenberg is the host of Saturday’s luncheon featuring Stella Artois Belgium Beer pairings. To conclude the weekend’s events, guests can enjoy the Ultimate Tailgate Party featuring the live television broadcast of the Green Bay Packers football game featuring tailgate-style food and beverages for purchase.

Traditional events for the weekend include the Thursday-evening Kohler Chefs’ Challenge ($10 – plus a suggested canned good for donation), Friday’s Shake & Stir Martini Party ($35) with Jon Ashton, the Grand Wine Tastings ($25) on Friday and Saturday, and the Sunday Champagne Brunch ($60) at The American Club. The 2nd annual Saturday evening Oktoberfest ($35) event featuring a live band and beer tasting will again be hosted in the Stella Artois Main Stage and Augusta National Chef Bruce Sacino returns for the second consecutive year to host the Champions Dinner at Whistling Straits ($150) on Saturday.

TICKETS

The schedule, tickets and pricing for the 2009 Kohler Food & Wine Experience are available online at www.KohlerFoodandWine.netor by calling 800-344-2838 starting early July. Ticketed event prices start at $15 and many events and tastings are complimentary. Events sell out quickly and it is advised to make reservations early to help ensure best selection and availability. Events, presenters, locations and times are subject to change. Visit the Facebook page at Kohler Food & Wine Experience.

COMPLIMENTARY ACTIVITIES

Complimentary demonstrations, tastings and activities are scheduled during the Kohler Food & Wine Experience weekend in various locations throughout the Village of Kohler including:

- Gourmet Grocer Vendor Fair at Woodlake Market

- The Shops at Woodlake – tastings, specials, trunk shows, drawings & events

- Chef demonstrations and samplings at the Kohler Design Center, enter to win The Kitchens of Kohler chef-inspired Kohler STAGES Sink and two Karbon faucets prize package

- Gourmet Marketplace at The American Club

HOTEL PACKAGES

Hotel packages for the weekend are available at The American Club. Special event two-night hotel packages for the nights of October 23 and 24 and feature exclusive event tickets start at $459 per person. Reservations can be made by calling 1-800-344-2838 or visiting www.DestinationKohler.com. Package prices based on double occupancy. The Taste of the Vine Package features two tickets to the Taste of the Vine signature Friday evening event at The Kohler Design Center. The Feast of Talents Package features two tickets to Taste of the Vine and two tickets to the Feast of Talents Dinner. This signature evening event features menu courses selected by the participating celebrity chefs – Marcus Samulesson, Andrew Zimmern, Lidia Bastianich, Jacques Pépin & Ulrich Koberstein – that will join guests for intimate evening concluded by a dessert course from the Kohler Original Recipe Chocolate chocolatiers.

SPONSORS

The 2009 Kohler Food & Wine Experience is co-sponsored by Destination Kohler, Food & Wine Magazine, Kohler Waters Spa and Stella Artois in cooperation with The Village of Kohler Tourism Promotion Committee. Additional event sponsors include Badger Liquor, Hoegaarden, Johnsonville Sausage, KitchenAid, Kobrand, Leffe, L’eft Bank, Reinhart Food Service, Sartori Foods, Stone’s Throw Winery, Torké Coffee Roasting Co., Wirtz Beverage Wisconsin, and the Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board.

Though he isn’t on National TV (aside from an appearance on Top Chef Season 4) Chicago’s Paul Kahan has legions of followers that flock to his restaurants Blackbird, Avec, and The Publican.  Instead of coming because they saw him on the Food Network  (like so many places these days) people love Kahan’s restaurants because of the food.

I first heard of Kahan in an old interview Michael Nagrant did on his Hungry Magazine podcast. (It was Nagrant’s podcast that also introduced me to Graham Elliot Bowles while he was racking up accolades at Avenues.) Ever since I heard that interview I have been hoping to dine at Blackbird.  Well last week I was in Chicago and finally had the opportunity to head over there for lunch.

I was dining solo so I called ahead and reserved a spot at the bar.  I ordered a Goose Island Matilda Belgian ale and perused the menu.  While I really wanted to try the duck tartare and the pork belly sandwich, that $22 menu was calling my name so decided on three dishes from the list of available options.  There were two appetizer, two entree, and two dessert options to select from.  You could also substitute your appetizer course with the soup of the day, which was a butternut squash bisque.  I ordered that along with a grilled sturgeon dish and a grape sorbet.

They brought out two slices of bread with some great butter that had been sprinkled with some spices, salt, and rosemary.  Shortly after I finished the bread the soup arrived.  The butternut squash soup was creamy but as my server told me when I asked about it, there is no cream in the dish.  That texture is the result of cashews that had been blended with the soup.  They added creaminess as well as a great nutty flavor to compliment the nutty tasting squash.  It was flawless.   The soup was poured at the table (or in my case the bar) over two pieces of smoked white tuna and some herbs, and some crunchy bits of something (I cannot remember what they were)  Each spoonful revealed new flavors combinations.  The smoked white tuna was simply incredible.  Still raw like sashimi, it had been cold smoked to the point of having the perfect amount of smoke while still retaining the freshness you come to expect with raw fish.  Seriously this may have been the best bowl of soup I have ever eaten.   

The second course was Wood-grilled California sturgeon with zucchini, pickled red onions, zucchini bread and candied olives.  It was another home run.  I had never tried sturgeon so I was very excited for this.  The sturgeon was perfectly cooked and seasoned and had the distinct flavor only achieved from wood grilling.  It was moist and flaky and so tender that it almost melted in my mouth. Thin strips of zucchini sat atop the sturgeon.  Tiny croutons of bright green zucchini bread were mixed in with the dish and there was a nice white sauce tying everything together.  The candied olives added a little more salt, bitterness, and crunch to the dish.  All I can say about this course was “wow.”

I was initially unenthused with the two options for dessert which included a concord grape sorbet or a warm spice bread with candied carrots, pickled gold raisins, and saffron ice cream.  I decided on the concord grape sorbet because it was somewhat warm outside and figured it would be a refreshing way  to end my meal.  It was.  The sorbet was bursting with concord grape flavor and it sat atop some crunchy candied peanuts.  After one bite I had my “a-ha!” moment when I realized I was pretty much eating a reinterpreted version of Peanut Butter & Jelly.  Every bite reminded me of a my childhood lunchtime favorite.  Another killer dish. 

Seriously this lunch at Blackbird was out of this world and at 22 bucks you’d have to be insane to not check it out if you are in Chicago.  They offer a $100 tasting menu at dinner which, given the excellence of this three course lunch I had, may also be quite a deal.

Service was friendly and attentive.  Everyone there seemed genuinely excited to talk about the food. Blackbird is located at 619 W. Randolph in Chicago, IL, 60661.   Their phone number is 312-715-0708 and their website is www.blackbirdrestaurant.com.

Visitors to Door County who have been enjoying Digger’s pizza in Fish Creek for almost 30 years were probably shocked this year when the Digger’s sign came down and the Wild Tomato sign went up. People don’t like it when their vacation dining destinations are gone. I still reminisce about childhood dinners eating Fried Walleye Pike or Roast Duck at Indian Lodge restaurant in St. Germain, WI even though it’s been closed for years. Well fans of Digger’s should have nothing to fear as Wild Tomato is making some of the best pizza in Wisconsin.

Some may argue that the biggest change at Wild Tomato is the addition of a wood fired oven, giving the pizzas a whole new taste and texture. However I may argue the more impressive change would be embracing the “eat local” manta wholeheartedly. From the ingredients on their pizzas, the beef on their burgers, and their selection of local microbrews, there is no doubt that Wild Tomato is at the forefront of the movement.

The night we dined at Wild Tomato they featured a Seasonal Tomato salad. This night it was a Caprese salad with local tomatoes, basil and Wisconsin fresh mozzarella. The tomatoes were ripe, juicy and flavorful, and the fresh mozzarella was nice and creamy. There was a nice drizzle of some good olive oil as well. The best part might have been the homemade sourdough bread which was baked in the wood fire oven, imparting a subtle smokiness into the bread.

Every night they feature a Wildwood Farms Pizza, loaded with seasonally changing ingredients from the farm, just a few short miles north in Liberty Grove.  Wildwood Farms products can also be found at the Sister Bay Farmers’ Market every Saturday.  The night we dined that pizza featured green beans, broccoli, tomatoes, spinach garlic, and I think onions. This pizza was so popular it was sold out before we got there (though we did come later in the night.) That was ok with us as it gave us a chance to try our second choice, the Veggie with wood fired red and green peppers, mushrooms onions, artichoke hearts, sun dried tomatoes, pesto, and Wisconsin Goat Cheese. The pizza was perfect. The crust hit that sweet spot where it manages to be nice and crispy but still flexible. The toppings were plentiful so you pretty much got a taste of everything in each bite.

I definitely want to return and try some of their other items like the Narrow Gate Farms burger or one of their heartier salads which includes a house preserved wild salmon and spinach salad, a wood fired vegetable cobb salad, and a chicken cherry walnut salad made with local cherries and goat cheese. Also given how great the sourdough bread was, the Wood Fired Bread Basket featuring garlic flat bread, herb focaccia, breadsticks, rosemary baguette, and cheese cracklins, all made in the wood fired oven, might be in order.

Wild Tomato also serves a wide array of microbrews primarily from Wisconsin but with some excellent offerings from other states like Lagunitas (California) which is one of my favorite breweries in the country. I enjoyed one of their IPAs after I finished my tasty Hopdinger Pale Ale from O’so Brewing in Plover, Wisconsin. I like a lot of O’so brews (the Night Train Porter is absolutely spectacular) and Wild Tomato has a very large selection of them. (for more on O’so Brewing, check out my post on a tasting I attended last year)

The place is a bit small so you may have to wait for a table on busier nights. Don’t let that deter you as the food is definitely worth it. They have a huge outdoor patio, which probably more than doubles their seating capacity in the warmer months. Service was friendly and attentive and it made the whole experience that much better.

Buying local, like “organic” has become almost meaningless. When places like Wal Mart plaster their store with “Buy Local” signs designed to dupe people into thinking that shopping at Wal Mart equates to buying things from your local farmers’ market, it’s good to see there are still places that really understand and embrace what eating locally is truly about. Wild Tomato has instantly become a “must visit” on every future trip to Door County.

Wild Tomato is located at 4023 State Hwy 42 in Fish Creek, WI 54212. Phone: (920) 868-3095. Web: www.wildtomatopizza.com/